Sep
 30
 2019



Caroline

Hello,

Welcome back to this new edition of The Spin. In the Merry go round of fashion weeks, Vivienne Westwood's designer takes some time to think about the feasibility of the system and curiously a 74 year old judge becomes the web sensation with her spider brooch. Meanwhile Anthropologie's chain begins its French immersion in Paris and Boss opens its biggest store in the world, at home in Metzingen. Enjoy the read. Best, Caroline.



brands

Less is more. Is Vivienne Westwood ready to renounce the show's formula? Her husband Andreas Kronthaler, who is taking top billing for several years, gave a few hints, backstage after the Paris fashion show. "I am not sure how long fashion weeks will be feasible" he declared. Vivienne Westwood and her husband take sustainability seriously. They are only using fabrics that already exist for the show and they refuse to dye them. They are also in favor of buying fewer articles albeit of great quality.





markets

Green denim. Levi Strauss is granting $380 000 to fund 11 fellows, members of its Collaboratory program, who are focusing on climate change. For example, the program, available to startups of Europe, Asia, Central America and the United States will help The R Collective rescue fabrics to create beautiful clothes. There is also a platform Reverse Resources on which to trade and trace end to end products. Leaders at Levi Strauss support the Collaboratory because they are convinced that climate change is a critical issue of our time.



Concierge talks. Jetblack, the luxury pet project of Marc Lore, Walmart's e-commerce president, could be on its way out. Outside parties are discussing with Walmart a possible partnership, spin off or sale. The concierge service offers its members the ability to order anything they want. These clients spend $1500 on average per month, but Jetblack is not yet profitable. In fact the global e-commerce division could lose $1 billion in 2019, which is pushing Walmart's leadership to revise its strategy.





retail

Who is the Boss? The largest Boss store in the world has just opened (translated by DeepL) in Metzingen, south of Stuttgart, where it all began for Hugo Boss. With a sales area of 5000 square meters, the store is (in German) able to accommodate a modern cafe, large video walls and almost 100 dressing rooms. The last Boss is not a flagship, it is an outlet that sells suits and T-shirt at permanent discount. The goal is to support the outlet business of the company, which already represents 20% of Boss sales.



Welcome to Paris. Anthropologie has opened (paywall) two stores in Paris in a mere few days. The American retailer, part of the URBN group (Urban Outfitters, Free People, BHLDN, Terrain) arrived in Europe 10 years ago, in London to be exact, but it didn't cross the channel. This time, the company wants to accelerate its European expansion. The brand, known for (in French) its unique bohemian style is now present in England (13 stores), Barcelona, Paris and Dusseldorf. Next on the agenda are Amsterdam and Hamburg.





people

Speedy promotion. Victoria Beckham has appointed (paywall) Marie Leblanc de Reynies as its new CEO. The French executive joined the company 18 months ago as product director. She was rapidly promoted to the role of managing director of brand and product when, last July, Paolo Riva, at that time CEO of Victoria Beckham, left the company. Three months later, she has gotten the CEO's crown. Prior to VBL, the new boss, a Studio Bercot alumnus, was head of buying at Le Printemps in Paris.



Digital answer. Alessandra Domizi, the former head retail and fashion at Google in Italy, is joining Tod's as chief digital and innovation officer. She will work closely with the chairman Diego Della Valle to build Tod's online strategy and to attract young consumers. Millennials are coming into more disposable income now. Prior to Google, she worked at Nokia and Sony.





last

Spider mania. One of the most talked about accessory of the season is a spider brooch, that big fat spider that Lady Hale, the 74 year old president of the British Supreme Court revealed on television, when she declared the illegality of Boris Johnson's decision to suspend parliament. Launchmetrics underlines that 427 online articles and posts have since appeared in the 48 hours followingher announcement. The platform Lyst noticed that search for animal brooches went up 126%.







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