Aug
 21
 2019



Ulrike

Hello,

Welcome back to The Spin! The fashion scene keeps changing: Luxury brands are putting more focus on sustainability, Diego Della Valle increased his stake in Tod's, and Jil Sander's creative directors Lucie and Luke Meier are off to head the department of fashion design at the University of Applied Arts in Vienna. And then there is the new "single dress" collection by a New York-based comedienne. Enjoy the read and feel free to share! Best, Ulrike



brands

Gucci goes green. Although deeply rooted in a quest for indulgence, international luxury brands and conglomerates like Kering and LVMH have started to put stronger focus on their sustainability strategies. Labels like Armani, Burberry, Gucci and Saint Laurent are already reviewing their practices and have begun to source more sustainable and/or biodegradable materials, restrict their water use, reduce the carbon footprint generated in production, and refrain from destroying unsold stock.


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Tod's transaction. The founder of Italian footwear and accessories brand Tod’s, Diego Della Valle, has raised his voting stake in the company to 81.2 percent. The move follows weak Q2 results, which led to a 6 percent fall (paywall) of the company’s stock. Following the transaction, Tod’s stock picked up again although a privatization of the company has been ruled out (in Italian) by CFO Emilio Macellari.


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retail

Birthday present. German menswear chain Anson’s is celebrating its 30th birthday with the opening (paywall; translated by Google) of a webshop and the expansion of its premium segment, adding brands like Iceberg, McQ and Zadig & Voltaire to its new Premium Luxury spaces at four locations. In total, Anson's operates 19 stores and employs about 800 staff, many of which have lent their faces to the upcoming anniversary campaign (image gallery).





markets

Teetering the tax. US online giant Amazon, which is facing major anti-trust investigations in Europe and possibly also the US due to its role as both a marketplace and a seller, has decided to pass on the new 3 percent digital tax in France to its French marketplace sellers. Amazon and other tech companies including Google and Facebook, view the tax as discriminatory.





people

Monsoon separation. After six years with Monsoon Accessorize, Paul Allen has resigned from his current CEO position at the British retailer. Allen was successfully involved in Monsoon's CVA process, which is designed to help companies to regain profitability as part of a turnaround plan. The CEO position will not be refilled, as founder Peter Simon and COO Nick Stowe plan to run the company on their own. The group's German business, Monsoon Accessorize GmbH, already declared bankruptcy in January.



Oh, Vienna! Lucie and Luke Meier, who have been creative directors at Italian fashion house Jil Sander since 2007, will head the department of fashion design at the University of Applied Arts in Vienna. The couple will take over the professorship from Hussein Chalayan (paywall), the British fashion designer, artist and entrepreneur, who retired from the university in June this year.



Mourning Mel Schott. Following a decades-long battle with Alzheimer’s disease, the founder of the Schott NYC brand passed on (paywall) from pneumonia at JFK Memorial Hospital in Atlantis, Florida. Mel Schott was 94 years old. The Brooklyn-born entrepreneur created his brand from his father’s business, which launched selling motorcycle jackets door-to-door. The brand was put on the map, when Marlon Brando wore one of his jackets in the 1953 movie The Wild One (movie clip).





last

Just one dress. 32-year-old Aidy Bryant of Saturday Night Live fame is starting a new plus-size line. Named after the comedienne’s great aunt, Pauline launched with just one shirt dress in three patterns, a solid, a stripe and a gingham check. Available in limited edition in sizes 12 to 28, The Lovington Dress is sold online for $175. If successful, the line might expand in the future.







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