Jul
 31
 2019



Christopher

Hello,

Welcome to a new edition of The Spin. People dominate today's news – there are new hires and executive changes at Gucci, Vans and Reebok, one famous designer will get an award next month and a trendsetting royal is going to launch her own clothing line. Meanwhile, many brands scored very poorly on a test of women's jeans done by a German magazine and a German designer is feuding with an Italian carmaker. Enjoy the read and please share The Spin with friends and colleagues. Thanks! Best, Christopher



brands

Dangerous denims. A disturbing new study (paywall; translated by Google) of 21 women's jeans from different brands by the consumer magazine Öko-test reveals that 15 of them contain the dye aniline, a probable human carcinogen. The study (in German) also asked about production transparency and five – including big names Lee, Diesel, Mustang and Wrangler – did not even bother to answer. All in all, no brand received a better rating than a mere "satisfactory." Five were rated "poor" and four "insufficient." The overall conclusion (in German) was "We cannot recommend women's jeans in good conscience."



Favorable first quarter. Ralph Lauren released its Q1 report yesterday and the numbers were encouraging. Revenue was up 3 percent to $1.4 billion and the brand performed especially well in Asia. However, its statement that it expects full-year sales in North America to be challenging sent its share price down 4 percent despite the otherwise good news.



Stop sign. German designer Phillipp Plein has posted a cease and desist letter he recently received from Ferrari to his Instagram account. The carmaker is demanding that he stop posting images of his designs on Ferrari cars – cars that he in fact owns. Ferrari says that the appearance of its name and logo in the shots implies that the two brands are cooperating, that it does not want to be associated with him in any way and that it already has licensing deals for shoes and clothes. Plein has not removed the pictures and said he was disgusted by the personal attack against him especially since he has been a loyal Ferrari client for ten years.





retail

Prime picks. Yesterday Amazon launched a fashion styling service called Personal Shopper by Prime Wardrobe to compete with Stitch Fix and other subscription box services. For an additional $4.99 per month, Prime subscribers can work with Amazon stylists to receive a monthly box with up to eight handpicked items chosen just for them. For now the program is only for women but it will be available for men soon.





people

Diversity director. Five months after it got flack for releasing a sweater that resembled blackface, Gucci has hired its first global head of diversity, equity and inclusion. Renée Tirado, who held a similar position at Major League Baseball, was chosen for the job. She will be based in New York and has promised to open up "new conversations" at the company.



New role at Reebok. Reebok has tapped Kerby Jean-Raymond of Pyer Moss to serve as artistic director of a new division called Reebok Studies__. In his new role he will be responsible for bringing in and working with celebrities and designers for special projects and further developing the current partnerships with Cardi B, Gigi Hadid and Victoria Beckham. The footwear giant has also extended its partnership with the designer for the Reebok by Pyer Moss collection, which launched in 2017.



Back to Vans. Vans will soon have a new vice president and general manager of the EMEA region. Yesterday parent company VF Corp announced that Michel Bilodeau, its current vice president and general manager of Outdoor & Action Sports for Canada, will take on the role starting in October. The promotion is something of a homecoming for Bilodeau as he joined VF Corp in 2009 as managing director of Vans in Canada.



M(arc)TV. Marc Jacobs, whose brand new fall campaign stars himself and Christy Turlington, will be the first recipient of the newly created "MTV Fashion Trailblazer Award" at the VMAs on August 26. The prize was created by MTV and the CFDA and honors the designer for his fashion contributions to the world of music, which include dressing Lady Gaga and creating ad campaigns starring Missy Elliott and Cher. Perhaps it's also MTV's way of thanking him for using its logo in his 2017 resort collection?



MM for M&S. Meghan Markle is launching a charity capsule collection of womenswear that's office appropriate later this year at Marks & Spencer and John Lewis to benefit Smart Works, an organization that helps unemployed women get back into the workplace by providing them with everything from interviewing skills to suitable clothing. For every item sold, another will be donated directly to the charity. The Duchess of Sussex worked with her fashion-designer friend Misha Nonoo to create the line, the name of which has not yet been revealed.







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