Jun
 17
 2019



Ulrike

Hello,

Welcome back! Today's issue of The Spin is strongly dominated by people news. Personnel changes are happening at brands like Kenzo and Comma as well as retailers like Lord & Taylor, Harrod's and Topshop, reflecting the massive shifts in our industry. There's also palpable unrest regarding Donald Trump's tariffs, which are starting to impact how business is done. Enjoy the read and feel free to share! Best, Ulrike



markets

Double sting. The trade war between the US and China is starting to affect companies on both sides of the dispute. In the US, over 660 retailers including Walmart, Target and Macy's have voiced their concerns about long-term economic damage in a letter to President Donald Trump. Over in China, where Trump’s tariffs have also begun to sting, concerns are growing that companies will leave the country for good.





retail

Creative community. In addition to used and vintage clothes, some of the Depop app's many young users are starting and distributing their own labels on the social shopping platform. Launched in Milan in 2011 and currently counting about 13 million users in 147 countries, Depop just raised $62 million to triple its user base in the US.



Early departure! As HBC reviews the strategy for its embattled Lord & Taylor department store chain and prepares for additional store closures, L&T president Vanessa LeFebvre unexpectedly announced her departure. LeFebvre joined Lord & Taylor in May 2018 from online styling service StitchFix (succeeding Liz Rodbell), and also worked for companies like Macy’s, TJX and Daffy’s after she started her career at Lord & Taylor in 2000.





brands

Quitting Kenzo. After eight years as artistic directors, Opening Ceremony’s Carol Lim and Humberto Leon are leaving the Paris-based Kenzo company. Since 1993, Kenzo has been part of French luxury conglomerate Moet Hennessy LVMH, which has seen quite some turmoil at the creative helm of its labels including Celine, the menswear division of Louis Vuitton (paywall) and Dior men's.





people

From Selfridges to Harrods. Lydia King will leave Selfridges to join Harrods as fashion director, effective September. King has been Selfridges’ director of womenswear buying and merchandising since April 2017. Overseeing womenswear and kidswear at Harrods, she is expected to deliver the luxury retailer’s ambitious vision for fashion.



From Topshop to M&S. Maddy Evans, who has been fashion director at Arcadia’s Topshop fashion chain since 2015, has left the troubled British retailer to join department store chain Marks & Spencer in an unspecified senior buying role. Evans, who has been with Topshop in various positions since 2009, is leaving as Topshop prepares to cut about 170 jobs in its head office as part of Arcadia's CVA.



Comma's musical chairs. As Comma streamlines (paywall; translated by Google) distribution, Jens Herzig, managing director of sales, has left the German fashion company. Three sales directors will now report to CEO Sonja Balodis (paywall; translated by Google): Comma manager Larissa Sarjean, who has been promoted to director international sales, eCommerce & digital innovation; Niko Papadopoulos, who'll become director national wholesale & franchise on July 1; and Niels Koischwitz, who'll take the position of director national retail & depot in July.





last

Under less influence! Riddled by scandals, controversies and unfavorable realty checks, the influence of influencers is shifting dramatically. US cosmetics chain Sephora, for example, just maxed out the number of influencers for its #SephoraSquad at 24 spots. To reduce pressure on social media users, Instagram is currently exploring new approaches including an interface, where the number of likes remains hidden.







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