Jun
 03
 2019



Ulrike

Hello,

Welcome back to a new issue of The Spin! Today, we take you to the new Virgil Abloh-designed Nike Lab Re-Creation Center in Chicago. We also show you Marc Jacobs' new item-centric @themarcjacobs collection, and tell you, where you can actually view Lady Gaga's infamous meat dress, which has dried into a jerky dress by now... Enjoy the read and feel free to share! Best, Ulrike



retail

Physical power plant. Virgil Abloh’s new Nike store design allows a glimpse into his vision for the store of the future. With an interior that resembles the inside of a giant shoe box, the Nike Lab Chicago Re-Creation Center is part experimental playground for Chicago’s creatives (think: free access to notebooks and markers) and part an ode to sustainability (think: ground up shoes as building material). The opening loosely coincides with Abloh’s Figures of Speech exhibition at the Chicago Museum of Contemporary Art, which is scheduled to run from June 10 to September 22.


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Honey, I shrunk the store. Due to decreasing mall traffic, US retailer Abercrombie & Fitch plans to close 40 stores this year, including the four-story Hollister flagship store in New York’s Soho neighborhood as well as A&F flagships in Milan and Fukuoka, Japan. The Ohio-based company, which already closed flagships in Hong Kong and Copenhagen, also aims to downsize the footprint of 84 existing locations and reduce the size of new stores.





brands

Back in Focus. With his new @themarcjacobs line, which is named after Marc Jacobs' Instagram account, the New York-based designer explores (interview) an affordable, more “item-y” approach to fashion. Noteworthy items in the first drop, which was released on May 30, include floral skirts, corduroy pants in ice-cream colors, striped sweaters and pants in his typical grunge look. Prices range from $35 for socks to $1,600 for cashmere hoodies.



La isla Hundida. On March 20, German fashion company Tom Tailor signed an agreement to sell its unprofitable Bonita subsidiary to Dutch Victory & Dreams International Holding, but banks are now refusing the sale. This forces Tom Tailor to examine (paywall; translated by Google) all strategic alternatives for Bonita, including new sales negotiations. As the company intensifies ongoing restructuring measures, negotiations with banks and majority shareholder Fosun continue.





markets

More for less. Although retail has changed dramatically during the past 30 years, US consumers have not. Much of their spending on furniture and entertainment has remained pretty stable. The exception: Clothing expenditures, which have dropped from 5 percent of disposable income in 1987 to about 2 percent in 2017. This did not affect the amount of items bought, though. Due to continuously falling prices, shoppers get more items for less money these days.





people

From VF to Woolrich. Following its sale to Liechtenstein-based investment firm L-Gam last year, US outerwear company Woolrich has named (paywall; translated by Google) Stefano Saccone its new CEO. Saccone comes from VF Corporation, where he most recently oversaw the European business of the Vans skate brand. At Woolrich he succeeds Paolo Corinaldesi, who led the company through its merger with Italian license WP Lavori, brought in the Japanese Goldwin Group, and negotiated the sale to L-Gam. Following the closure of Woolrich's last domestic plant, Corinaldesi will now push international expansion with strong focus on North America.



Mission: Possible. The Council of Fashion Designers of America has named Hong Kong-based entrepreneur Adrian Cheng as its first global ambassador. During the four-year tenure, Cheng, who is the founder of the experiential K11 mall/museum hybrid concept and the investment firm C Ventures, will assist the CFDA develop international educational programs for designers, guide American designers with their international strategy, and help drive the organization's growth across Asia.





last

Walk, walk, fashion baby! Lady Gaga fans who are dying to see her iconic outfits - including that notorious meat dress (now jerky) - can do so at a new exhibition in Las Vegas. Named after the singer's Haus of Gaga creative team, the selfie-friendly shrine (video) to the Lady Gaga's style is located at the entrance to Park Theater at Park MGM on the Vegas Strip. As part of the planned rotation of about 40 outfits, selected pieces will become available for auction, with benefits going to Lady Gaga’s foundation.







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