Apr
 24
 2019



Ulrike

Hello,

Welcome back to The Spin! As Debenhams grapples with the aftermath of its sale to its lenders, Kohl’s rolls out its collaboration with Amazon to its entire store network. Over in Europe, Zalando decided to charge for shipping of orders valued less than about €25. We also tell you, which labels have been named most often in rap songs last year. Enjoy the read and feel free to share! Best, Ulrike



retail

Disarray at Debenhams. Following the sale of British department store group Debenham’s to its lenders, CEO Sergio Bucher has left office. Until a successor is found, his duties are taken on by chairman Terry Duddy. As part of its restructuring, the company’s new owners plan to close 20 of about 240 Debenhams stores early next year. Meanwhile, former shareholder Mike Ashley of Sports Direct is complaining to the FCA about the sales process, which wiped out all previous shareholders’ equity.



Love story. Starting in July, US department store chain Kohl's will accept returns of Amazon purchases at all of its 1,150 stores. The announcement boosted Kohl's stock by almost 12 percent. The partnership started two years ago, partly to bring more shoppers to Kohl's brick-and-mortar stores. It launched at 80 locations and has since been expanded to about 100. In addition, Kohl’s will bring Amazon products into 200 of its stores, with some featuring Amazon’s Smart Home Experience.



No more, Mr. Nice Guy! Following a test in Italy, German online retailer Zalando requires (paywall; translated by Google) customers in Great Britain, Ireland and Spain to pay for shipment of orders under £19,90 or €24,90 respectively. Returns remain free of charge. Although Zalando struggles with shrinking order volumes, high return rates and rising fulfillment costs, no such limit is currently planned for Germany.





people

From Thom Browne to Schiaparelli. Daniel Roseberry has been named artistic director at Maison Schiaparelli, succeeding design director Bertrand Guyon. In the new position, Roseberry will oversee all collections and projects at Schiaparelli. The Texan designer comes from New York label Thom Browne, where he most recently held the position of design director for men’s and women’s. He’s the third designer tasked with bringing back Schiaparelli’s magic since Diego Della Valle bought the label in 2006.





markets

Casual Encounters. As American offices get progressively more casual - with Goldman Sachs recently making headlines for its decision to relax its dress code - Silicon Valley startups aim to help people to dress appropriately. In addition to countless styling services, sustainably oriented shoe labels like Allbirds and Rothy’s are thriving in this novel environment.





brands

Strut the status. Fendi, Balenciaga and Gucci are the brands referred to (paywall) most often in rap songs last year, respectively scoring 252, 218 and 194 mentions. Givenchy, Dior and Balmain are next on the list, followed by Prada, Saint Laurent and Adidas. Virgil Abloh’s Off-White rounds off the top ten. Altogether, the top three brands were named 664 times, up from a collective 31 times in 2010. New names are popping up as well, including Amiri and Pyer Moss, which just collaborated with Reebok.



Relentless attitude. A 13-year-old Kung Fu first-degree black belt from Yorkville has launched his own fashion line. Aimed at customers of any age - with fans ranging from 2 to 91 - Mason Bumba’s “Relentless Threads” currently offers T-shirts, hoodies, caps and stickers for anyone, who shares his relentless attitude. He promotes the line with its double diamond logo on social media and sells it via Shopify.





last

Nomen est omen. For insulting a Zara sales associate, Ibiza-based model and influencer Bonnie Strange has to pay (translated by Google) €10,000 for pain and suffering. In late 2017, Strange - whose real name is Jana Weilert, and who once ran her own store called The Shit (in German) - threw clothes on the floor of a Berlin Zara store. When the salesman asked her to pick them up, she insulted him, filmed the scene and published clips on Snapchat allegedly asking her followers to “finish him off”…







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