Jan
 24
 2019



Ulrike

Hello,

Happy Thursday and welcome back to The Spin! Today, we examine China's growing significance both as an expanding consumer market and an aggressive player on the international retail scene. We also present the highlights from Paris' men's and couture shows - and a shoe maker of a special kind. Enjoy the read and feel free to share! Best, Ulrike



markets

Outspending the US! This year, China is going to surpass the US as the largest retail market worldwide. According to eMarketer, China's total retail sales are poised (press release) to jump 7.5 percent to $5.6 trillion in 2019, while the US retail market is expected to increase 3.3 percent to $5.5 trillion. At about $1.4 trillion, China is already the world's largest online market. With an estimated 30 percent increase to $1.9 trillion, China will account for 55.8 percent of the world’s eCommerce by the end of 2019.


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Move over, Myntra. With the right combination of price, variety and trendy designs, Chinese online retailers like Club Factory and Shein are taking eCommerce in India by storm, moving in on market leaders like Flipkart’s 12-year-old fashion platform Myntra. In turn, Myntra has tapped 9,000 so-called kirana stores in 50 Indian cities to speed up last-mile delivery.





retail

Kaufhof's cuts. Following significant sales declines during the Christmas season, German retailer Galeria Kaufhof is considering massive cost cuts. The company, which was formerly owned by HBC, is working on a joint-venture (press release) with rival Karstadt in which HBC holds 49.99 percent. Before the takeover, Kaufhof already started (paywall; in German) a restructuring program, which did not lead to sufficient cost reductions.





brands

Big cat. In 2021, German sports giant Puma is going to consolidate (press release) its North American headquarters in Somerville, Massachusetts. So far, Puma North America Inc operated from two separate Massachusetts-based locations, Boston and Westford. The new space provides room for 550 employees, about 20 percent more than before, and includes (paywall; in German) a large roof terrace, basketball court and state-of-the-art fitness center. North America is one of Puma’s most important growth markets.



It's raining men. The top looks (image gallery) from the Paris menswear shows include innovative tailoring, checks and scribble patterns, strong color clashes, elegant puffers and a slew of fancy overcoats in funky animal prints, elegant shine, and artsy color splashes. The most interesting settings include Dior’s conveyor belt, Thom Browne’s absurd bubble wrap vanguards, and Jacquemus’ delectable breakfast table.



All that Jazz. Over at the women’s couture shows, brands like Giorgio Armani Privé, Dior and Schiaparelli stood out with Jazz age inspirations, elegant circus influences, and eyecatching “ball” gowns. During the event, Vogue Runway has been raising eyebrows for charging commercial brands a fee of up to $20,000 to post their collection images alongside the top designer names on its fashion week website.





people

From Nike to Superdry. Amidst a boardroom revolt launched by co-founder Julian Dunkerton, British sports label Superdry has named Phil Dickinson creative director. Dickinson, who was head of sportswear at Nike Inc before launching his own design agency, is expected to speed up and energize Superdry’s product diversification and innovation program. He succeeds Brigitte Danielmeyer who left the company last December and joined Dutch clothing retailer C&A as buying manager in January 2019.





last

These boots aren't made for walking. The extraordinary shoes by Brooklyn-based artist Diana Rojas hardly ever hit the ground. Her clay versions of Calvin Klein’s coveted cowboy boots, Balenciaga's platform Crocs and Vetement’s platform ankle boots have been exhibited at the MoMa's PopRally, Brooklyn’s Pratt Institute and countless galleries in the US, UK and Asia. Regular price points are between $700 and $1,500 and can go up to $5,000 for particularly elaborate pieces.







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