Oct
 01
 2018



Christopher

Hello,

Here's a brand new edition of The Spin to start off this new week. Paris continues to be in the style spotlight with two more days of Fashion Week shows to go, a newly named street for a legendary designer and acquisition news from homegrown brand Chanel. Meanwhile, malls are taking on new athletic anchors and religious fashion has proven to be a huge hit at The Met Museum in New York. Enjoy the read, feel free to share it and have a very productive and successful week ahead. Best, Christopher



brands

Weekend in Paris. Concluding Tuesday night with the Louis Vuitton show, Paris Fashion Week continues to roar on and gender-bending looks are a key trend to emerge on its runways. Highlights of the weekend included Hedi Slimane's first show for Celine which featured his usual skinny aesthetic and had both its fans and haters, Haider Ackerman's first dual-gender show, Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood's skateboard-themed presentation, an entirely sneaker-free Balenciaga collection and Clare Waight Keller's glittery eveningwear at Givenchy.


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Taking the plunge. Chanel has purchased the British men's resort and beachwear brand Orlebar Brown for an undisclosed amount. Founder Adam Brown will stay on as creative director of the brand, which sells more than 40 percent of its merchandise online, an area that Chanel is looking to expand into. Chanel also aims to create synergies with Orlebar Brown and another company it owns, the women's swim and lingerie label Eres.





people

Sonia's street. In other Paris Fashion Week news, the late Sonia Rykiel was honored over the weekend by having the alley where she used to shop for fruit and vegetables named after her. It is the first time a Paris thoroughfare has ever been rechristened (video) to honor a designer and following the dedication ceremony by Paris Mayor Anne Hidalgo, the brand held its fashion show there.





markets

Trimming tariffs. China's finance ministry announced yesterday that it will lower tariffs on textiles by just over 3 percent, from 11.5 percent to 8.4 percent starting November 1. The move aims to open up the Chinese market to more imports and comes in the wake of increasing trade-war pressure from the US. China previously lowered its tariffs on apparel in July.





retail

Gym dandy. While many malls are suffering and losing traditional anchor department-store tenants, others are staying afloat by leasing spaces to to fitness centers instead of stores. In the US alone mall-based gyms have tripled their square footage in the last decade and fitness center leasing in malls has increased about 70 percent since 2013. Not surprisingly, gym membership rates are also up in the US and have grown 26.3 percent since 2009.



Wait here. More and more online retailers are implementing product waitlists to build buzz and engage with customers – and most say they are effective. Similarly, the sneaker app Copdate is flourishing as it allows sneakerheads to conveniently reserve a pair at a store prior to the actual drop date and thus avoid lining up for them. Founder Andrew Raisman calls the app a "game-changer" as it aims to make buying cool kicks entirely "hassle-free."



Short-changed. As stores and brands increasingly widen their selections to cater to all body types, one special niche says it is still mostly being ignored: short men under 5'8". To fill the void, direct-to-consumer brands such as Ash & Erie have emerged and are boasting impressive sales figures. However, insiders say that traditional stores still have a long way to go to potentially capture this market.





last

Answered prayers. New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art's Catholic-themed costume exhibition "Heavenly Bodies" has shattered attendance records and become the most visited show the Met's Costume Institute has ever produced. More than 1.3 million people have seen the portion in the main building on Fifth Avenue while nearly 200,000 have taken in the second part at The Met Cloisters since the show opened on May 8. "Heavenly Bodies" may even become the most popular show the museum has ever staged when it when it ends it run this Sunday – so catch it while you can.







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