Sep
 19
 2018



Ulrike

Hello,

Welcome back to The Spin! Today we check out London Fashion Week's most interesting trends. We also have news about takeovers, restructuring plans and tech innovations. And then there is the Japanese retailer, who's planning to fly a fashion designer to the moon. Enjoy the read and feel free to share with friends and colleagues! Best, Ulrike



brands

Florals, veils and macramé. London Fashion Week ended yesterday with Richard Quinn's exuberant Popart-inspired show - and a speech (transcript) by PM Theresa May. The four-day event brought us florals, veils and macramé. Highlights included Riccardo Tisci’s bourgeois Burberry collection, Erdem’s merry widows, Delposo’s eloquent drapings and Christopher Kane’s delicate patchwork - as well as a new focus on diversity.


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Total control. Artémis, the fashion holding of French billionaire François Pinault’s family, has bought the remaining 60 percent in Courrèges from Jacques Bungert and Frédéric Torloting, who acquired a majority in the designer label in 2011. Starting in 2015, Artémis had accumulated (in French) 40 percent of the brand, which is currently being restructured under new CEO Christina Ahlers and Artistic Director Yolanda Zobel.



Bitter pill. Esprit CEO Anders Kristiansen wants to bring back the ailing brand’s luster by tightening the product offer. improving quality and fits - and massively cutting (paywall; in German) costs. In fiscal 2017/18, the company's revenues were down 3 percent with a 15 percent drop in the Asia-Pacific region, leading to a HK$2.25 billion loss. Still, China remains an important market for the brand, which expects a low double-digit decline in sales for fiscal 2018/19.



The perfect Gucci-antidote. Sporting stiff fabrics, romantic prints and modest cuts, the pioneer-style dresses of two-year-old fashion label Batsheva have quietly worked their way into the hearts and closets of US fashionistas. Inspired by Orthodox Judaism and an old Laura Ashley dress, designer Batsheva Hay’s line already counts Hollywood stars like Natalie Portman as fans.





tech

Cyber stage. Two-months-old b2b platform Veee.com aims to accelerate the fashion industry’s digital transformation. Connecting retailers with more than 1,500 premium brands, the Berlin-based start-up offers one-click product searches as well as inspiration and storytelling. Veee.com was founded by trade show pro Thomas Lorenz and tech expert Jeanny Wang. Lorenz’ previous employer, trade show organizer Premium Group, is a minority owner.



The revolutionists. At its recent Shop.org conference, the NRF has presented (press release) its inaugural Innovation Awards to six companies: Icecream Labs for AI-enabled catalog management, Allure Systems for innovative on-figure garment image technology, Hero for conversational omnichannel commerce solutions, logistics provider ZigZag, AI-supported display developer Mystore-e and the promotion consolidation app, Trade’Em.





markets

Pakets, not passengers. Following a profit warning, German fashion e-tailer Zalando's stock fell (paywall; in German) 20 percent on Tuesday. Meanwhile, the city of Frankfurt and partners have started testing package deliveries via public transit trams.





last

Luna-trip. Japanese billionaire and art collector Yusaku Maezawa has bought all tickets on the inaugural flight of Elon Musk’s Big Falcon Rocket to bring a group of artists including at least one fashion designer on his trip to circle the moon. The founder of Japanese fashion e-tailer Zozotown has scheduled his week-long flight for 2023, hoping to turn the SpaceX event into a global, universal art project called #dearMoon.







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