Sep
 18
 2018



Ulrike

Hello,

Welcome back to The Spin! At London Fashion Week, Riccardo Tisci shocked onlookers with his bourgeois debut collection for Burberry. Meanwhile, Walmart and Amazon continue to lock horns, this time in New York. There's also some gossip about a famous designer deliberately stalling his fashion show to sabotage Rihanna. Enjoy the read and feel free to share! Best, Ulrike



brands

Run, Bambi, run! Riccardo Tisci’s debut collection for Burberry (image gallery) started off with unexpectedly serene, ladylike classics, mostly in beige. Then came florals, polka dots and handkerchief designs. Only towards the end, the 134-piece collection finally turned into what Tisci had already teased on social media: edgy streetwear influences culminating in a Why did they kill Bambi shirt. Aptly named Kingdom, the patchwork of British style elements offers products for the whole family.


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Virgil goes to Germany - again. Off-White founder and CEO Virgil Abloh, who's also artistic director at Louis Vuitton menswear, has created (paywall; in German) a capsule collection for German department store chain Breuninger. Featuring prints in Breuninger’s signature orange, the line (image gallery) will launch October 10. In April, Berlin-based KaDeWe featured (in German) an exclusive Off-White capsule to launch its new Off-White shop.



Liberty for Premium. Berlin-based trade fair organizer Premium Group has bought a minority stake in New York’s Liberty Fairs Fashion Group. As partners, the two companies plan to explore (paywall) multiple opportunities in each other’s markets with Liberty’s upcoming show in Las Vegas already including a Premium section.





retail

A Bronx tale. Walmart’s online division Jet.com has leased a 20,000 sq.m. warehouse in The Bronx, marking the online giant’s first step into New York City. So far, the big box retailer has been kept out of the Big Apple by activists, but with smaller formats and trendier brands it might eventually get in. Heating up competition with Amazon, Jet.com plans to offer same-day deliveries.



Theme for great cities. Following the test of Amazon Go in Seattle, the online giant just brought its cashier-less store concept to Chicago. Using Just Walk Out technology, Amazon Go allows app-empowered customers to swipe in, pick up what they need and leave without having to interacting with employees. Currently, the retail giant is also looking for managers for a planned Amazon Go location in New York City.



Strength in numbers. On Monday, Amazon also launched the digital Amazon Storefronts. Listing merchandise by themes like Handmade and Halloween, the area is designed to help customers navigate the products of nearly 20,000 small and medium-sized US businesses, many of which sell exclusively on the site. Short videos allow small companies to better present themselves.





people

From Primark to Boohoo. To boost its international expansion, British fast fashion online retailer Boohoo has named John Lyttle CEO, effective March 2019. Lyttle is currently COO at Irish fast fashion chain Primark and has previously held positions at Matalan and Arcadia Group. At Boohoo, he will take over day-to-day operations from the company’s co-founders and co-CEOs, Mahmud Kamani and Carol Kane





last

Savage sabotage. New York’s rumor mill is churning with accusations that Marc Jacobs purposely delayed his fashion show to sabotage Rihanna’s Savage x Fenty event, which had been given the honor to close New York Fashion Week - a title, previously held by Jacobs. In a lengthy Instagram post, the designer chronicles some events leading up to the delay, which almost had US Vogue’s Anna Wintour walk out, but fails to give an actual reason.







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