Sep
 10
 2018



Christopher

Hello,

It's a new week – complete with a new edition of The Spin. Today you'll hear about the hottest shows at NYFW and the latest retail trends when it comes to airport shopping and 100% automated stores. There's also news from China and London. And don't forget to give Karl a call to wish him many happy returns of the day... Enjoy! Thanks for reading, Christopher



brands

Big Apple anniversaries. Now going into Day Five, New York Fashion Week remains in full swing and three major brands already have marked milestone anniversaries at it. Ralph Lauren presented an opulent 50th anniversary show (video) in Central Park on Friday night and Longchamp celebrated 70 years in business with a runway presentation at The World Center on Saturday, the same day that Badgley Mischka toasted 30 years. In addition, the late Kate Spade was honored at her namesake brand's show, which featured the first collection by new creative director Nicola Glass.


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Big birthday. Speaking of major milestones, Karl Lagerfeld turns 85 today. Showing absolutely no sign of slowing down his creative output, the Chanel and Fendi creative director recently announced that he will launch a collaboration between his eponymous brand and Puma on October 19. The men's and women's 13-piece capsule will include shoes, apparel and accessories and will conclude Puma's yearlong celebration of the 50th anniversary of its Suede sneaker.


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people

Not so fast. Although the New York Times reported (paywall) on Friday that Alibaba chairman and founder Jack Ma would retire today as chairman of the Alibaba Group, he actually won't be stepping down for another year the company announced earlier today. Current CEO Daniel Zhang will replace him in 2019 and Ma will remain on the board of directors until 2020. The move was made so that the company – a key seller of foreign brands in China – is not reliant on the leadership of one person only.





markets

Courting China. In additional news about outside brands selling in China, two luxury names are expanding their retail footprint there. Ralph Lauren has launched its first official Chinese e-commerce store and another online store via WeChat while Tiffany plans to open its first e-commerce store in China by next year. The famous jeweler currently has 34 physical stores in China and recently experienced a 28 percent jump in quarterly growth in the Asia-Pacific, particularly in China.



Animal Anglophilia. In the wake of Burberry declaring it was no longer going to use real fur, the British Fashion Council has announced that this season's edition of London Fashion Week, which officially starts on Friday, will be entirely fur-free for the first time. It will be the first of the world's major fashion weeks not to show real fur and is said to "reflect a cultural change" according to the BFC. Real fur has not been formally banned from the event; it's just that none of the participating designers chose to use it.



Stopping the swoosh. Nike's recent ad featuring kneeling-in-protest-during-the-national-anthem football player Colin Kaepernick continues to anger many conservative Americans who are doing their best to boycott the brand. These include the Republican mayor of Kenner, Louisiana who has banned his recreational department from buying apparel and equipment from the athletic giant. Now the mayor's action is being criticized by Nike supporters.





retail

Flying high? Numerous airports around the world are getting makeovers or switching up their store mixes to make shopping there more pleasant. One such example is Copenhagen Airport which has just welcomed the first airport outlet of H&M's Arket and a new concept by local brand Wood Wood. However, fashion and luxury shops don't necessarily thrive in these hubs especially if they lack a heavy flow of international travelers.



More of cashier-less. India has just welcomed its first ever manless, cashier-less retail store that uses a similar concept to Amazon Go, et al. This Watasale shop in Kochi is further proof that these automated emporiums are on the rise worldwide. But for now at least, China is leading the way in implementing them.







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