Sep
 04
 2018



Ulrike

Hello,

Welcome back to The Spin! Today we take a look at Zalando's reinvented Bread & Butter event. We also tell you, which brand has started proceedings to have itself removed from Walmart.com's new premium outdoor e-shop, and how apparel donated to Africa gets back to European vintage stores. Enjoy the read and feel free to share! Best, Ulrike



markets

Cultivating community. Zalando’s trade show-turned streetwear festival Bread & Butter (8.31.-9.2.) recorded (paywall; in German) 35,000 visitors, 43 exhibitors and 100 product drops. The program also included (press release) fashion performances, panel discussions and musical acts. About 100 exclusive products are now on offer at Zalando.com’s new Bread & Butter shop, which aims to distinguish (paywall) the brand from faceless platforms.


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brands

Escape plan. Walmart just received a cease and desist letter from Black Diamond, asking to be removed from Walmart.com’s new premium outdoor e-store. The online flagship is curated (press release) by outdoor specialist Moosejaw, which was acquired by Walmart in 2017, and features some - but not all - labels from the Moosejaw assortment. Experts expect Black Diamond to be just the the first of more complainants…





retail

New sensation. To make Debenhams more approachable and reignite the joy of shopping, the British department store chain is modernizing its brand identity, stores and logo and launched the upbeat “Do a bit of Debenhams” campaign. New elements like the "Beauty Hall of the Future" are supposed to make Debenhams a destination retailer, while new features like click-and-collect are supposed to boost its digital business.



Mini Mall. NY-based brand development platform Direct Brands Group has just opened a 180 sq.m. brick-and-mortar presence for nine labels at Acadia Realty's City Point shopping complex in Brooklyn. Of the nine brands at the so-called HiO space, eight are foreign - some just starting to test the US waters. Down the line, DBG plans additional HiO outlets measuring up to 470 sq.m.





people

The greatest showwoman. Rei Kawakubo’s subversive designs for Comme des Garçons have always been addictive to her fans, but these days, its rather men (image gallery) than women (image gallery) who cue up for the latest collections. Using unexpected and challenging materials and shapes, she turns not just her garments - also known as objects for the body - but also her customers into practical works of art.



#JD.Too. Richard Qiangdong Liu, Founder, Chairman and CEO of JD.com, has been accused of criminal sexual conduct. Last Friday, the Chinese billionnaire was briefly arrested in Minnesota. The police treat the incident as an active investigation, as JD.com insists that the accusations are false and threatens (in Chinese) legal actions against rumors. Liu has since returned to China.





markets

Through the back door. Since imports of donated apparel tend to undermine local manufacturing, some African countries like Nigeria have banned second-hand apparel imports or hit them with high tariffs. That shifted the market to countries like Togo, where used merchandise is now being curated and smuggled into markets like Nigeria and even Europe. Put into a new context these products of overproduction can be marked up again for sale at flea-markets and pop-up shops.





last

Angering the witch queen. As part of a larger trend towards mainstream mysticism, beauty chain Sephora has launched a $42 Starter Witch Kit for aspiring sorceresses. The magic set, which will be released in time for the upcoming Halloween celebration (10.31.) includes Tarot cards, a sage wand and a rose quartz crystal. Established witches are not amused and call the commercialization of witchcraft disrespectful, some even hoping that the newbies accidentally hex themselves.







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