Happy Monday and welcome back to The Spin! As luxury menswear labels presented their Spring 2019 collections in Paris, British Members of Parliament have been called to investigate fast fashion’s impact on the environment. Over in China, the retail giants exemplify how to successfully advance in the game. We also tell you why - and how - Microsoft is going under water. Enjoy your read and have a great week, Ulrike


Getting serious. The British Environmental Audit Committee (EAC) is investigating the environmental impact of fast fashion in the UK, including its carbon footprint, resource use and water impact. The probe follows a recent study claiming that about 300,000 tons of clothing are discarded annually in Britain. Until September 3, interested parties can provide evidence on how the growing sector should remodel itself.



Sharper focus. As it finalizes its merger with French lens company Essilor, Italian eyewear giant Luxottica announced the acquisition of Barberini Spa for €140 million. Barberini, which specializes in optical sunglass lenses, generated sales of approximately €85 million in 2017. With the purchase, which is expected to close by Q3, Luxuottica plans to expand (paywall) on its “top quality” and “made in Italy” strategies.


Edge of evolution. Chinese retail giants are out-smarting their Western rivals with integrated on- and offline retail, highly automated fulfillment centers and barcode-tracking that reveals the entire chain of an item’s journey to the consumer. Offering additional service with fewer workers gives them the edge - for now.

Like a pop-up. In the US, retailers like Neighborhood Goods take the pop-up concept to a new level, combining merchants and bars with social events including concerts and guest speakers on a relatively small footprint of just over 1,000 m2. Looking to attract Millennials, Neighborhood Goods keeps distances short by placing the entertainment area in the store’s center and merchants around it, with most systems running on existing platforms like Shopify. The first location will open in Plano/Texas this fall.


Drowning data. While cloud vendors are betting on wind and solar energy to supplement their servers’ appetite for energy, Microsoft is going under water. The company collaborates (press release) with French Naval Group’s on Project Natick to develop submarines for undersea data centers which are cooled with a dual air-water system that should reduce cooling costs by 95 percent. No word yet on the potential impact of the rise in water temperatures on surrounding marine life.


Show stoppers. The best menswear shows in Paris this weekend included Thom Browne’s surreal garden party - to be watched with yellow tinted glasses, Yoshio Kubo’s bank-robber aesthetic presented in front of safe deposit boxes, and Kim Jones’ “romantic, rather than feminine” debut collection for Dior. The hype surrounding Louis Vuitton Men’s designer Virgil Abloh also continues (paywall) with the Murakami & Abloh, Technicolor 2 exhibition at the Gagosian gallery in Paris.

Double trouble. During Paris Fashion Week Men's, new designer collaborations with US sports giant Nike have been spotted on several runways. While fusion-specialist Sacai re-assembled elements of four Nike styles including the Blazer and the Dunk, Comme des Garçons featured a new CDG x Nike Presto style with a woven upper and an embedded cord.


Big on bags. The Year of the Dog capsule collection by Longchamp in collaboration with Chinese handbag blogger Mr. Bags took off with sales of over $770.000 on the first day. In addition to supporting the launch on Mr. Bags’ own social media, the group created a special hashtag, engaged celebrities and enticing experiences for top clients, even broadcasting some content on electronic billboards.


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