Welcome back to The Spin! We start the work week with a look at the hottest outfits from last night's Oscars and Paris Fashion Week. We also reveal, which designers are going after the "spare luxury" segment, that just opened due to Phoebe Philo's exit from Céline. Still, all the excitement cannot deflect from the continued risks of high debt loads - and creepy customer connections. Enjoy the read and feel free to share! Best, Ulrike


Rock the message. The dress code was back to normal at last night's Oscars, with cheery gowns and political messages contained to buttons like Everytown's orange gun safety pin. Over at Paris Fashion Week, themes for next fall include the Roaring Twenties, Nature, 70s Glam Rock, bold 80s looks and wild de- and re-constructions merging streetwear with athleisure.


Dangerous debt. As a gloomy week for retailers came to an end last Friday, experts warn that a continued surplus of stores, shifting consumer spending and approaching debt maturities continue to threaten the US retail sector, which could see defaults matching or even exceeding those of 2017 this year. The new tax bill, which caps interest deductions, causes further distress to debt-laden retailers and might reduce leverage levels in future buyouts.


The proof is in the picture. US online giant Amazon has quietly rolled out the Amazon Logistics Photo On Delivery program, requiring delivery personal to take photographs of exactly where packages have been placed outside customers’ doors. These images are sent to both consumers and Amazon, which uses them for verification of delivery within its refund system.

Creepy friends. Although the attempt to "friend" their customers might seem intrusive to some retailers as well as their customers, experts assert that the benefit of cultivating loyal shoppers is worth the risk. It's all about proportion and rewards, as about a fifth of all consumers would stop frequenting a company if the brand goes too far, like trying to access social media pages, emails or contacts.


For real women. Phoebe Philo's departure from Céline is leaving a visible gap in Paris' fashion scene. While eleven high profile women reminisce about her subtly subversive wardrobe staples that were uniforms for fashion and art world insiders alike, Loewe designer Jonathan Anderson is making a grab at the niche of sophisticated luxury fashion that Philo's departure just opened.

Less is more. Another designer targeting real-life women is Heidy Rehman. The former stockbroker decided to quit her high-profile job to launch the London-based label Rose & Willard. Made in Britain, it offers modern but elegant silhouettes for women of all colors, shapes, sizes and religions. But contrary to most fashion start-ups, Rehman rather works with productive young mothers than freebie-hungry influencers and prefers high quality to trendiness.


Yeehaw! Designers are bringing back bold cowboy looks. When Raf Simons introduced a silver-toed $1,400 Calvin Klein cowboy boot, it completely sold out, while a similar women's style is already at low inventory levels. Western elements have also been seen at Vetements, Givenchy, and Opening Ceremony, just to name a few. The dark side of Western gear is expressed by the image of a pair of cowboy boots, that went viral after shooting victim Stephen Vicelia left them behind at the Las Vegas massacre in October 2017.

Totally Tory. Nordstrom is expanding its engagement with Tory Burch, planning to open six pop-ups on March 5, the same day it will exclusively launch the designer's Just like Heaven scent. The Tory Burch x Nordstrom shops will feature inspirations and items from the Spring 2018 collection including sketches and swatches as well as clothing and accessories. The initiative will be followed in August by the inclusion of the Tory Burch home collection.


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