Welcome back to a new week and a new issue of The Spin! Today, we tell you about Amazon's newest fashion initiative, and why it has already sunk Lululemon’s stock. We also reveal the reasons why several New York designers defected to Paris. You might also be surprised to learn that the preferred "uniform" of US white supremacists seems to come right off the golf-course. Enjoy the read and have a great week, Ulrike


Shock wave. Amazon is working on a private activewear label, threatening the world's largest sports brands. According to Bloomberg, the online giant has started to enlist sports apparel manufacturers that are known to have been working with brands like Nike, Lululemon and Under Armour. When the news broke Friday afternoon, shares of sports specialists like Canadian activewear chain Lululemon and US activewear brands Under Armour fell up to 4.9 percent, but have since somewhat recovered.



Juicy deal. Adidas has reached a settlement in the trademark lawsuit against Juicy Couture over the Californian company's use of the German sports brand's three-stripe trademark. Adidas alleged that Juicy Couture violated an agreement from 2009, where it agreed not to sell apparel featuring parallel stripes. A motion was filed in Oregon Federal Court to dismiss the case against the Jamie Mizrahi-designed label. Terms of the settlement have not been disclosed.

Proenza's Paris. Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, who launched their successful fashion label Proenza Schouler in 2002 in New York, recently defected from New York Fashion Week to show in Paris. According to the designers, leaving (paywall) the US metropolis behind was "bittersweet", but Paris apparently offers more creativity while New York is seen by some as a much more commercial location. Additional US labels that recently moved to show in Paris are Rodarte, Thom Browne and Altuzarra.


AI domination. Artificial Intelligence was the dominating theme at last week's Shoptalk Europe, where experts predicted that by 2020 about 85 percent of all jobs are going to be handled by AI. Most retailers confirm that they expect some form of AI in their company's future, especially in mobile payments. Another important subject was the highly debatable future of brick-and-mortar stores, which might not be as bleak as often foretold as long as they adapt swiftly to changing consumer needs.


37 percent British. Amidst Brexit talks and negotiations, the British fashion industry is trying to counter increasing hostility towards immigrants. Last week, fashion chain Jigsaw plastered its windows and billboards with pro-immigration slogans, pointing out that without immigration the company would be "selling potato sacks". The company currently struggles to fill vacancies and combat rising costs due to higher import taxes. According to Jigsaw, people in Britain are 37% British on average.

Top teens. According to a Piper Jaffray study (press release) Adidas, Birkenstock, Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger, Supreme and Vans gained the most in US teenager approval, while Nike, Ralph Lauren, Steve Madden, UGG, Fossil and Michael Kors fell back in comparison to last year. Amazon remains the preferred online retailer, while Snapchat leads in social media.


Running for the hills. The Harvey Weinstein scandal continues to harm the Marchesa fashion label, which was founded in 2004 by the disgraced movie mogul's estranged wife and her friend, Keren Craig. As reported, Helzberg Diamonds has cancelled its planned Marchesa collaboration, which was due to hit stores for the holiday season. Now, the label's pricy bridal collection is seeing brides turning away. In fear for their jobs, Marchesa employees are said to be desperate to leave the company, allegedly sending out resumes "all over town".


No look of love. US neo-Nazis, white supremacists and other representatives of the "alt-right" movement have resorted to a golf-course look that consists of white polo shirts and khaki pants, accessorized - to the dismay of some manufacturers - with tiki torches. Typical references like tattoos, combat boots and shaved heads have been replaced by a look of "vague mainstream acceptability", allowing devotees to disassociate from the harsh genocidal elements of right-wing ideology.


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