There was a lot of news to cover for today's edition of The Spin. So before we welcome the weekend we're taking a look at Gucci's rapid comeback to #1 at Kering, how hot-button political issues are affecting the American fashion biz, grumblings in the world of plus-size and why smoking seems to be (sadly) stylish again. Enjoy the read and feel free to forward it to your friends and colleagues. TGIF and happy weekend, Christopher


Gucci's gain. The record breaking Q2 results released by Kering yesterday revealed an interesting accession: Gucci has officially come back and exceeded Yves Saint Laurent as the most successful brand in the luxury conglomerate's stable. The Italian house's comparable sales rose 39.3 percent and are said to account for 60 percent of Kering's profits now.



US stores score political win... After lobbying against it for months, US retail associations and individual retailers celebrated yesterday as the White House and ruling Republican Party announced that they would no longer support (paywall) the establishment of a 20 percent border adjustment tax, or BAT, on imported goods as part of the plan for a national tax overhaul. Major US retail stocks rose anywhere from 2 to almost 5 percent in wake of the news.

...as JCRT fights trans ban... Less than 24 hours after President Trump announced his plan to ban transgender people from the US military designers Jeffrey Costello and Robert Tagliapietra of JCRT created a special plaid shirt using the colors of the transgender pride flag emblazoned with a "Don't Tread on Me" graphic. The $125 shirt is now available for preorder online and all proceeds from its sale will be donated to SPART*A , a community organization for transgender military members.

...and Alternative Apparel supports Gore. To mark today's release of "An Inconvenient Sequel," the follow-up to "An Inconvenient Truth," Al Gore's 2006 documentary about climate change, California sustainable brand Alternative Apparel is creating related shop windows in its stores and selling 75 limited edition canvas tote bags (paywall) with a graphic from the film.

Less in London. The British Fashion Council, which runs London Fashion Week Men's, announced that the January 2018 edition will start later than usual, on January 6 , and have a three-day run instead the usual four so that participants don't have to rush their year-end holidays. LFMW will return to a four-day format in June.


Boos for Boohoo... British online retailer Boohoo has come under fire on social media for using standard-size models to sell its plus-size offerings and for charging more – in what some call a "fat tax" – for plus-size versions of its designs. One of its harshest critics, a body-positive campaign called "Free to Be OK With Me," charges that the webshop promotes body dysmorphia . Boohoo faced similar charges just a year ago .

...and Torrid's big little lie. Plus-size retail chain Torrid has been fact-checked by the fashion press after announcing that it will make its New York Fashion Week debut in September and claiming that it will be the first plus-size brand to show there. As outlets such as Fashionista and Refinery29 point out, two other plus-size brands showed there in 2013 and 2016 respectively and that Torrid's only "milestone" is that it will be the first plus-size brand to show at NYFW: The Shows, which is the new name for the gathering under producer IMG.


Biotech buys Best Made. Bolt Threads, a California-based biotechnology startup that has caught the attention of both fashion brands such as Patagonia and financial investors because of it specializes in creating synthetic spider silk that can be used to make clothing, announced yesterday that it has acquired Best Made Company, a maker of outdoor apparel and gear, for an undisclosed sum. This comes on the heels of a recent announcement that Bolt Threads will be partnering with Stella McCartney for a one-off dress.


Ruston's new role. Sarah Rutson, the former veep of global buying at Net-a-Porter where she brought many new brands aboard, has a new role as chief brand ambassador at L.A.-based Dutch LLC, which owns the labels Joie and Current/Elliott. The company also announced it is changing its name to The Collected Group.

VFILES enlists Dapper Dan. After being thrown back into the fashion spotlight recently after Gucci showed a coat that is a so-called homage to his initial Gucci homage in 1980s, legendary Harlem tailor and streetwear designer Daniel "Dapper Dan" Day has been plucked by cutting-edge NYC-based creative platform and retailer VFILES to mentor its designers for a group runway show at NY Fashion Week in September. His co-mentor will be Jimmy Moffat of talent agency Art + Commerce.


Puff, puff. Fashion seems to be unable to kick its old habits and currently appears to be on yet another pro-smoking binge. Several upscale brands and boutiques are offering items that promote cannabis use while influencers such as Bella Hadid and Kendall Jenner are being criticized for posting photos of themselves holding lit cigarettes. A new study also shows that tobacco use in Hollywood movies is also experiencing a major uptick.


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