Oct
 04
 2018



Ulrike

Hello,

Happy Thursday and welcome back to The Spin! Rental services, temporary storefronts and a large Calvin Klein x Amazon festival in New York are further changing up the retail scene. There are also several personell changes across the US and Europe - and a strong new creative influence straight out of Nigeria. Enjoy the read and don't forget to share! Best, Ulrike



tech

Access vs. ownership. US retail chain Express has launched a clothing rental subscription, allowing customers to rent three items for $69.95 per month with unlimited exchanges. With its Express Style Trial the company follows the footsteps of Ann Taylor and New York & Co., which also power their programs with the CaaStle logistics platform. According to the companies, the program brings in new customers and increases spending.


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brands

Diane ditches fur. New York-based designer label Diane von Furstenberg joins an increasing (paywall) number of brands and retailers that have given up the use of angora, fur and exotic skins. According to PETA, the move follows a year-long push by the animal rights organization. Last July, DvF already banned mohair.



Calvin's Carnival. Calvin Klein expands its assortment on Amazon, releasing a denim jacket originally created for A$AP Rocky. To celebrate, the companies are staging the Calvin Klein x Amazon Fashion market in New York, offering Calvin Klein Jeans and Underwear as well as a immersive experiences (press release). Highlight is the “Together in Denim” billboard, where visitors can re-enact the campaign shoot. During the 2017 holiday season, Calvin Klein partnered with Amazon for pop-up shops.





people

Musical chairs in the US... Tailored Brands has named Carrie Ask Brand President at Men’s Wearhouse and Moores, where she will oversee (press release) the $2 billion retail business of the two companies. Ask comes from Levi Strauss & Co and has also worked for Nike Inc in the past. At Tailored Brands she succeeds Scott Norris, who has been named Chief Merchandising Officer for the two brands. She reports to Executive Chairman, Dinesh Lathi.



...Germany... Ralf Weber is going to relinquish the CEO position and join the Supervisory Board at Gerry Weber AG on October 31. His successor (paywall; in German) is current Chief Sales and Digital Officer Johannes Ehling. The company also appointed Florian Frank as Chief Restructuring Officer. Separately, Ralph Lauren has promoted (paywall; in German) Martina Bovenkerk to SVP and Head of Germany, Central and Eastern Europe from VP of Wholesale and eCommerce EMEA and LATAM.



...and Italy. After a few years pursuing her own projects, Margherita Maccapani Missoni, is returning to her family’s company. As head of M Missioni, the daughter of Missoni’s Creative Director Angela Missoni, has been assigned to expand the secondary brand, which was brought in-house (paywall) last April. Her debut collection will hit the market for Spring 2020.





markets

Lagos calling! Beyonce already referenced Nigerian culture in her 2013 song Flawless (video) featuring novelist Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie. Drake followed 2015 with a remix of Ojuelegba (video). Now Nigeria’s creative influence is entering global mainstream in art, music and fashion. Socially conscious designers like Ikiré Jones, Mowalola Ogunlesi and Kenneth Ize are drawing from Lagos street life, bringing a whole new dimension to the fashion scene.





retail

Getting (a bit) physical. Californian start-up company Re:Store allows small fashion, lifestyle, home decor and beauty brands with a strong social media presence to share a physical store, also providing them with inventory services and co-working spaces. Founder Selene Cruz was driven by her own needs for affordable retail space for her Archer Brighton label. Participants will pay $350-$850 per month plus 20 percent of sales.







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