Sep
 24
 2018



Caroline

Hello,

Welcome back to a new edition of The Spin. On the note of optimism the luxury platform Farfetch is beginning its life on the stock exchange with panache. On a more pessimistic note, Trump tariffs are having a chilling effect on China and American retailers. Consumers enthusiam could be deflated by higher prices. Nevertheless, they seem pretty eager to buy limited editions of luxury sneakers offered by Adidas and Balenciaga. Enjoy the read. Best, Caroline.



markets

Great expectations. Farfetch, the online marketplace for luxury items had (paywall) a glorious IPO debut on Friday. It raised $885 million via the New York Stock Exchange and its stock went on to gain as much as 53% during the first trading day, bringing its valuation around $8 billion. That's not bad for a company which had never turned a profit. Investors bet on the growth for high end goods sold on Internet, expecting Farfetch to be the next Amazon or Alibaba.



Travel delay. The new Trump tariffs on $200 billion of Chinese goods set to go into effect September 24 had a chilling effect on Chinese diplomacy. Vice Premier Liu He has scrapped (paywall) trade talks that were scheduled to take place in Washington. Big US retailers, Walmart and Gap are preparing to raise their prices, while designer Rebecca Minkoff says she will sacrifice on margins...and try to figure out how to move her accessories out of Chinese plants.



Moving out. Neiman Marcus bondholder Marble Ridge Capital didn't appreciate MyTheresa business moving from the luxury department store assets to Neiman Marcus group, that belongs to the retailer's private equity owners, Ares and CPPIB. According to Marble Ridge Capital, the move "strips a valuable asset away from the creditors of the company and gifts it to Ares and CPPIB". Marble Ridge Capital says that resultantly the company may be "in default on its debts". Neiman Marcus owners disagree.





brands

Sneaker fever. Adidas has just released (paywall) a limited edition of its 4D Consortium trainer created with the London independent sneaker store Footpatrol. The 150 pairs with a sale price of £400 combine the Adidas special mid-sole and Footpatrol colour palette. For those who missed the opportunity, Balenciaga is organizing another drop of track sneakers on September 24 in Los Angeles, Miami, New York and online.



PVC fever. For Fashionistas who can't get used to those ugly sneakers, Ada Kokosar, designer of the new label Midnight 00 offers (paywall) an alternative: wrap the pumps into plastic. Her creations use uncommon PVC to cover heels embellished in duchesse satin and crystal. The plastic waterproof and dirt resistant plastic is emerging as a new material for creators. The trend was already spotted in Virgil Abhol's Off White collaboration with Jimmy Choo. The result: pumps encased in plastic that look like glass.





retail

In the hood. Neighborhood Goods, which presents itself as the alternative to the department store, will open its first bricks and mortar store in November in Plano (Texas). It will showcase those emerging pure play e-commerce brands, neglected by classical department stores. Among the new comers are Stadium Goods (sneakers), Desmond and Dempsey (pajamas), Buck Mason (Menswear) ...The store wants to create a place to shop, eat and learn, reminiscent of The Edit, created by Simon Property Group.





tech

The print return. Cosmopolitan magazine is partnering with Macy's and AR (Augmented Reality) developer, Perfect Corp to create a print-to-digital beauty experience. The October issue will allow readers to scan a QR code in the magazine. The readers will then be directed to Cosmo's website, where they can upload a real time selfie to test out various looks from Juicy Couture makeup. If they like it, they can buy the products online at Macys.com. The objective? A seamless shopping experience.



Under the influence. Fewer than 20% of consumers have made purchases via social media (Instagram, Snapchat...), according to consulting firm Sumo Heavy. The researchers, which surveyed American adults in 2016 and 2018, have noticed that social media increasingly influence purchasing decisions. For instance 45% of consumers admitted it in 2016, 58% today. On the other hand, 82% still don't use the buy button, citing privacy and security concerns.







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