May
 16
 2018



Ulrike

Hello,

Happy Wednesday and welcome back to The Spin! After months of musical chairs at HBC’s German department store chain, Galeria Kaufhof, a new leadership team has finally been assembled. To bring back the Marchesa label, Anna Wintour just lent a helping hand to Harvey Weinstein’s estranged wife, designer Georgina Chapman. On the product front, there’s increasing focus on larger sizes - and on luxury consignment. Enjoy the read - and your day, Ulrike



people

Dream team. Bernd Beetz has been named (paywall; in German) Chairman of the supervisory board of HBC's German department store chain, Galeria Kaufhof, effective June 6. The industry veteran was most recently CEO of Coty. He will succeed Wolfgang Link, who is leaving (in German) the Cologne-based retailer after just one year. In addition, two HBC managers are vacating the Kaufhof board. Their positions go (paywall) to former Henkel CEO Hans-Dietrich Winkhaus and former Degussa chief, Ernst-Uwe Bufe.



Show and tell. Legendary street fashion photographer Bill Cunningham, who passed away in June, is getting a career-spanning museum retrospective at the New York Historical Society. Scheduled to run from June 8 to September 9, it features photographs and never-before-seen personal correspondence as well as his signature bicycle and denim jacket, his first camera, and even some of the hats he made during his earlier career as hat designer.





brands

Karl's curves. Personally, Karl Lagerfeld sports a slim silhouette these days - but he has a heart for curvy girls. In cooperation with the subscription styling service Stitch Fix, King Karl is launching a 15-piece Karl Lagerfeld Paris plus-size collection in sizes 14W to 24W. It retails from $39 to $158 and will be available starting in August, giving an additional push to KLP's current expansion in the US. Meanwhile, Nordstrom expands its plus-size assortment, while British fashion chain New Look is facing a backlash for imposing higher prices on larger sizes.



Return to royalty. At last week's Met Gala, Scarlett Johansson brought the ailing Marchesa label of Harvey Weinstein's estranged wife back onto the red carpet. Anna Wintour might have been behind the high-profile appearance, given that the editor-in-chief of US Vogue just published a supportive editor's letter and interview with Georgina Chapman. According to Wintour, the designer should not be punished for her husband's failings. But Marchesa might also suffer, because Weinstein allegedly forced it on top actresses who might have preferred to wear something different - and now can.



Repair the air. Italian fashion company Kloters has launched a T-shirt made with an anti-bacterial carbon mesh called The Breath, which attracts and removes pollutants like nitrogen and sulphur oxides from the air surrounding the wearer. Kloters markets its RepAir shirts as zero impact garments that can trap the emissions of two cars. The shirts themselves, however, can not be recycled (yet).





markets

Selfie with the bag. In addition to hundreds of thousands of used designer items, luxury consignment retailer The RealReal also offers access to knowledge. The Soho store, for example, offers workshops to identify authentic Hermès bags by smell and stitching, while visits to the bathroom are accompanied by recordings of the right pronunciation of foreign designer names. These services elevate customer experience to the level of the merchandise - as does the ongoing online collaboration with Stella McCartney.





tech

Bird's eye view. Soon, Augmented Reality will allow online shoppers to virtually view sneakers on their foot from different angles. The mobile AR marketing startup Vyking AR just announced the new technology on social media. So far, it does not offer virtual fittings, though, but the multi-angle birds eye view is a definite step forward from earlier AR initiatives like that by Lacoste.





last

Melania beats Alexa. Since Donald Trump became US President, an increasing number of Americans has started naming their daughters after his wife, Melania, and his daughter, Ivanka. The monicker Donald did not attain same rise in popularity, though. And neither did Alexa. But while Donald remained on its previous level of appeal, the name of Amazon's voice assistant actually lost allure.







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