Apr
 19
 2018



Ulrike

Hello,

Happy Thursday and welcome back to The Spin! With personnel changes at Nike, Marc Jacobs and DVF, the tumultuous string of turnovers continues, culminating in premature speculation on who might succeed Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel when the time comes. Meanwhile, Amazon facilitates international shopping, as JD looks to build its European luxury business. Enjoy the read and feel free to share! Cheers, Ulrike



retail

Over the borderline. Amazon has updated its app to facilitate mobile shopping across international borders, making product, that's only marketed locally, available to a global audience. Among the new features are five language (English, Spanish, Portuguese, German, Chinese) and 25 currency options, as well as information on pricing, shipping, import duty estimates and customs clearance. Later this year, more languages and currencies should be added.



The lure of luxe. Chinese online giant JD is trying to outpace Alibaba in the quest for European luxury merchants, claiming that its organization offers faster deliveries and better protection from counterfeits than its rival. To accelerate its European push, the Beijing-based e-tailer plans to open an office in Milan. It will complement the one that opened in Paris in January. On April 12, JD also opened the Joybuy.es website for beta testing in Spain.



Eyes on expansion. British fashion retailer River Island, which just announced to include third-party menswear brands in its web shop, plans to open and/or remodel five flagships in 2018. The first location is an expanded 26,000 sq. ft. store that just opened at the Landsec White Rose shopping center in Leeds. It features an extended womenswear offering, larger menswear and kidswear departments, click-and-collect service and in-store DJs.





people

The departed. US sports giant Nike Inc, which plans to launch its 3-D Flyprint at the London Marathon, has just seen three additional managers depart amid its internal review. Gone are Antoine Andrews, VP of Diversity and Inclusion; Vikrant Singh, Senior Brand Director at Nike Basketball; and Daniel Tawiah, VP of Global Brand Digital-Marketing Innovation. Last month, Parker's heir apparent, Nike Brand President Trevor Edwards, resigned (paywall) as Jayme Martin, who reported to him, was forced out on accusations of improper conduct. CEO Mark Parker is unfazed, claiming (Q3 call transcript) that Nike has a deep leadership bench.



From GBG to DVF. Sandra Campos has been appointed (paywall) CEO at Diane von Furstenberg, effective immediately. Campos comes to DVF from Global Brands Group, where she held the title of Co-President of Womenswear (BCBG, Bebe, Hervé Léger, Juicy Couture, Tretorn) and worked closely with Nathan Jenden, who was recently named Chief Design Officer at DVF. She succeeds Paolo Riva who left the company in 2016. At GBG, Olin Lancaster is now Group President for both mens and womenswear.



Stopped making sense. After a two-month stint, John Targon is out at Marc Jacobs. In February, the co-founder and co-designer of "loose luxury" label Baja East was appointed Creative Director for Marc Jacobs' lower priced contemporary division, which was developed after the cessation of the Marc by Marc Jacobs diffusion line in 2015. According to the company, working with him did not make sense.



Bitter ascend. Following the unsolved disappearance of Tengelmann Co-CEO Karl-Erivan Haub, the German retail group has appointed his younger brother, Christian Haub, as sole CEO. The nomination is effective immediately. The elder Haub had gone missing on April 7, during a training for an upcoming skiing competition in the Swiss Alps. Both his family and management have now given up (paywall; in German) hope of finding him alive.





markets

Small batch, big business. In the era of personalized influencer marketing, micro-merchandising is gaining traction. Emotional reality show stars have marketed their own tissue paper, while online sports companies sell merch with their instructors' motivational phrases. From a few to a few thousand, no following seems too small to monetize: When British teenage style influencer Leo Mandella aka @gullyguyleo released a coloring book of himself in high-end street wear last year, a few hundred copies were sold...





last

"No. I can’t think about that!" Fashion Week Daily quizzed eight stylists on who should replace Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel when the time comes. Although some had problems wrapping their head around the idea, Heidi Slimane ended up topping the list. The new man at Céline is followed by his predecessor at the French luxe brand, Phoebe Philo, and Calvin Klein's Raf Simons. B. Akerlund confidently named herself as a worthy successor to King Karl, and Lanvin's former Creative Director Alber Elbaz was also mentioned, in case Hedi's not available…







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