Feb
 16
 2018



Christopher

Hello,

TGIF and welcome to this final edition of The Spin for the week. All eyes will be on London the next few days as Fashion Week officially starts there this morning. There's plenty of other news from the UK as well, including a penalty and PR hiccup for Primark, a new collection from ASOS and just formed partnership between Farfetch and Burberry. Enjoy the read and have a terrific weekend. (Note: Due to the Presidents' Day holiday we will not publish on Monday but will be back with more news on Tuesday, February 20.) Best, Christopher



retail

Tackling Target. A new study by Coresight Research reveals that shoppers who purchased clothing or footwear on Amazon were most likely to have previously bought those same kinds of items from Target. The survey of 1,500 people over age 18 names Target as Amazon's worst victim, followed by Walmart, Macy's and JCPenney. Target apparel shoppers are also more likely on average to have an Amazon Prime membership. In addition, Amazon's new private label apparel ranges are now the fourth most purchased on the site.


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Punishing Primark... A London employment tribunal has ruled that Primark must pay £47,433.03 for emotional damage and loss of pay to Alexandra de Souza, a transgender woman, who was bullied and discriminated against by fellow employees while working there. Primark was also accused of sexism and infantilizing women this week for the wording of its changing room signs – the one for males said "Mens" while the one for females said "Girls." The store apologized for the "signage error" and says it has fixed it.



...and fighting with it, too. Primark and its super cheap competitor Poundland are having a very public price war on social media this week over who sells the the least expensive pair of jeans. After the latter launched its new Pep & Co model for £5 and noted that Primark's jeans were £6, Primark lowered its price to £4.50 and posted about it. Poundland immediately responded and wrote that the price change "seems awkward."





brands

Power couple. Burberry announced yesterday that it is partnering with online luxury retailer Farfetch to make all of its merchandise available to online customers in 150 countries. The esteemed British brand said it hopes to better target a "young fashion-conscious consumer" through the new deal.



Boot suit. Deckers Outdoor Corp, the parent company of Ugg, filed a lawsuit on Wednesday in a US District Court claiming that Walmart and Reliable Knitting Works, the maker of the Muk Luks boot brand, have copied key design elements of Ugg's Bailey Button boot model and are deceiving the public with the knockoffs. The complaint (paywall) accuses the two defendants of trade dress infringement, design-patent infringement and unfair competition.



Athletic ASOS. Online retailer ASOS launched its first activewear line, ASOS 4505, yesterday. The range of more than 100 pieces includes items for women and men priced from $16 to $222. Many of the items harken back to the 1980s (gallery) with bright colors, prints and colorblocking.





people

Ochs is out. Just days after showing the 10-year anniversary collection of her womenswear brand with business partner Carly Cushnie, designer Michelle Ochs of Cushnie et Ochs has announced that she is leaving the label. Company CEO Peter Arnold is also jumping ship. Cushnie will remain and will act as temporary CEO until Arnold's replacement is named.



Moving magazines. Deborah Needleman, the who served as editor in chief of T: The New York Times Style Magazine until 2016, has been named the new editor at large at Harper's Bazaar. She will work under editor in chief Glenda Bailey and contribute story ideas. Prior to her stint at T, Needleman served as editor of WSJ, the magazine published by The Wall Street Journal.





markets

No place like London... The fall/winter 2018 edition of London Fashion Week will officially kick off this morning with the 9am show of Richard Malone. The biannual event will run through Tuesday and include the final show of Christopher Bailey for Burberry on Saturday and the first co-ed show of J.W. Anderson. Skipping shows this season are LFW regulars Topshop, Ralph & Russo and Anya Hindmarch, who decided to do a weeklong outdoor installation of hearts instead.



...but take care there. Robberies by thieves on mopeds on London's main shopping streets have risen dramatically in recent times. The crimes, in which mobile phones and other items are snatched by motorbike drivers, have increased six-fold in the last two years and jumped from 13 in 2014-15 on Oxford Street alone to 291 last year. Shoppers on Regent and Bond Streets are also popular targets. The rise has been blamed on more "phone zombies" (i.e., people who cannot stop looking at their phones) walking the streets and tempting crooks by flaunting their devices out in the open.





last

Wigged out. Although designers proposed several retro-based looks at New York Fashion Week this past week, one in particular probably won't be embraced by the general public. South Korean fashion designer Kaiman's runway show featured models wearing merkins, or wigs for female genitalia. The accessory of choice of prostitutes in the 15th century and beyond, these very old-school versions of "hair extensions" are often used when shooting films and TV shows.







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