Jan
 30
 2018



Ulrike

Hello,

Welcome back to The Spin! Today, we examine the best outfits from the star studded 2018 Grammy Awards. We also tell you, which crowded apparel category three former Under Armour executives are trying to disrupt, and why Indian designers are more successful in their home country than Chinese. Enjoy the read and feel free to share! Best, Ulrike



brands

Express yourself! Unified by white roses in support of the Time's Up movement, the stars at Sunday night's Grammy Awards proved that musicians are fashions most expressive players. Introducing innovative brands like Gosha Rubchinskiy, Off-White, Ashi Studio and Maggie Marilyn to the masses, those shamelessly self-expressing stars can teach the rest of the world just how to effectively communicate with clothes.


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Livin' la vida normcore. The ugly trend, which brought us visual delights such as celebrity sightings in Crocs, is now reaching the hotel industry: Japanese homewear retailer Muji just opened its first ever "anti-gorgeous" hotel in China's top tier city of Shenzhen. All items displayed in the minimalist rooms are for sale.





people

Denim disruptors. Three former Under Armour executives have launched the online-only denim label Revtown. Henry Stafford, UA's former Chief Merchandising Officer, Steve Battista, former SVP of Brand, and Matt Maasdam, former head of eCommerce, are out to design jeans that are refined enough for the office, comfy enough for the home and affordable enough for broad distribution.





retail

Avoiding trial. US fashion chain Abercrombie & Fitch agreed to pay $25 million to settle a class-action lawsuit with almost 260,000 employees over a rule that allegedly forced them to buy Abercrombie and Hollister clothing for work, pushing the income of minimum wage workers under the legal limit. Many US states require employers to reimburse their employees for expenses related to work uniforms. Abercrombie & Fitch denies any wrongdoing.



Testing the water. Zara has opened its first ever click-and-collect popup store at London's Westfield Stratford City. Employees use mobile devices to assist visitors, while RFID technology speeds up processes. An automated order collection point serviced by a warehouse allows shoppers to pick up online buys at their discretion.





markets

Going West. Following the Mao era, Chinese consumers have been looking to foreign brands to fill the vacuum left in the aftermath of the Cultural Revolution. High net worth Chinese make an average of about six international trips per year. Doing much of their shopping abroad, they keep business challenging for much of the home-grown talent.



Wild wedding. In India, on the other hand, domestic designers have long held a very high status, especially at large domestic affairs like huge weddings where the clothing budget alone can hit half a million dollars. This market is still dominated by domestic names like Sabyasachi Mukherjee and Ruchika Sachdeva. In addition, Indian craftsmanship has been employed for decades by Western luxury designers like Dior, Chanel and Prada (paywall).





last

Bright like a diamond! When designer Kirsten Li started to experiment with latex for high-end fashion, she discovered that the fetish material is pretty hard to work with. Especially natural latex, which is made from sap and counts as a sustainable material, does not always hold up to peoples' expectations, disintegrating through contact with oil and eventually turning back to sap. But it's still the perfect look for stars like Rihanna to shine in.







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