Jan
 08
 2018



Ulrike

Hello,

Welcome back to The Spin! Fashion Week Men's in London, Golden Globes in Los Angeles, the new year’s second week is off to a exciting start. But not all is hunky dory. The retail job market got hammered in 2017, and more store closures are on the horizon. Of course, the large online giants continue their quest to conquer the world and have even captured part of the luxury repair market. Enjoy the read and feel free to share! Best, Ulrike



markets

Manly man. London Fashion Week Men's has moved from androgynous gender-fluid looks towards strong masculinity. On the first three days of the event, black leather dominated in pants, jackets and even sneakers. David Beckham's Kent & Curven label which just opened a store on Floral Street blasts "no guts, no glory" on its T-shirts. Over at the Golden Globes in Los Angeles, actresses wore black to emphasize their solidarity with the Time's Up and #metoo movements.


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brands

Increasingly instagrammable. British menswear just got a tad more eccentric with Rottingdean Bazaar's shrunken and inflatable garments (image gallery), applied gloves, socks and rubber tools, plus motifs created by pubic hair. Founded in late 2015 by James Theseus Buck and Luke Brook, this tongue-in-cheek label started as a series of fashion experiments and is now gaining traction.



Leaving London. Marc Jacobs is downsizing (paywall) its retail presence in Europe. According to its website, the LVMH-owned brand currently operates eight European stores including outlets and airport stores in countries like Denmark, France and Italy. The planned closures include the last remaining location in London. Just the store on Paris' Rue Saint Honoré seems certain to remain open. The brand's wholesale business is not affected.



What's in a name? This summer, the New York City-based cult label Supreme hit a $1 billion valuation. The company, which was founded by James Jebbia in 1994 is just one example for the increasing relevance of authentic streetwear in an increasingly casual apparel market. To some, this begs the question why streetwear isn't just called fashion...





retail

Going global. In an interview with Sportswear International, Alibaba Group's Managing Director for Germany, Austria, Eastern Europe and Turkey, Karl Wehner, explains how the Chinese online giant plans to gain market share in Europe. The group also intends to bring more European product onto its Chinese platforms, including German sportswear, French fashion and British tea.





markets

From the ashes. The US retail sector lost (press release) 66,500 jobs in 2017. Department stores, warehouse clubs and apparel retailers are among the formats that shed the most workers during the first 11 months of 2017. But there were also retail segments that created new jobs, led by electronic, home improvement and discount retailers and also including bridal and lingerie stores.



Canada calling. Last year, a record number of retailers opened their first stores in Canada. Among them Hunter, Moose Knuckles, Miniso and Woolrich. In addition, chains like Aritzia, H&M, Muji and Uniqlo continued their expansion. Approaching the market with a significantly reduced footprint, these companies could see very positive growth rates this year.





last

Mr. Fix it. Although demand remains strong, luxury watch repair is a fading craft in the US. Meanwhile, in China, online luxury repair services like Master Bao, Edaixi and Luxe Crafts Workshop are booming. Since its inception in 2016, for example, Chinese luxe repair service Master Bao has amassed over 220,000 registered users from all over the world. Currently, Master Bao can only be booked through its online partner, JD.com.







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