Oct
 18
 2017



Ulrike

Hello,

Happy Wednesday and welcome back to The Spin! Befitting the upcoming Halloween season, we have a few shocks on offer. There is Phoebe Philo’s rumored exit from Céline, Italian Canali Spa’s unexpected closure of a menswear factory in Northern Italy, and an insensitive Halloween costume idea that still haunts the Internet thinly disguised by a new name. Enjoy the read and feel free to share with friends and coworkers! Best, Ulrike



people

Rumor has it. French luxury group LVMH is said to be looking (paywall) to replace Céline's Creative Director, Phoebe Philo, by the end of the year. Potential candidates include Victoria Beckham's Design Director Ilaria Icardi, Ports 1961's Design Director Natasa Cagalj, and Céline’s own Design Director for ready-to-wear, Michael Rider. Philo joined Céline in 2008 and is said to have boosted brand revenues from €200 million to €700 million.


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retail

Trillion dollar business. By 2027, US online retail sales are likely to surpass $1 trillion. That's more than double the $445 billion forecast for this year, reflecting a compound annual growth rate of 12 percent for the next ten years. In the same time frame, the share of eCommerce in total retail sales is projected to grow from 34 percent (2016) to 53 percent. The big winner will be US online giant Amazon, which is likely to increase its online market share from around 34 percent to over 50 percent.



Betting on Beauty. Online retailer Zalando will enter the beauty market (in German), offering cosmetics, skin and hair care, fragrances, tools and accessories. The new category will be available to German customers starting next spring (press release). Furthermore the online giant announced to open a "Beauty Concept Store" in Berlin.



Five's a charm. US teen retailer Rue 21 has emerged (paywall) from bankruptcy protection with a new board of directors, but is still looking for a permanent Chief Executive. When found, it will be the fifth CEO since last year. Michael Appel has been named (press release) Chairman and Interim CEO, taking over from Melanie Cox, who was Interim CEO since April 2017 and will resign upon the completion of the company's restructuring.





brands

Magnetic style. Following last year's successful launch of adaptive clothing for children, US sportswear label Tommy Hilfiger has added a similar range for adults. On offer are about 70 styles that are modified to make it easier for men and women with disabilities to get dressed, utilizing Velcro, magnetic closures and adjusted leg openings. The looks reflect Hilfiger's typical Americana aesthetic.



Personal label. Luxury online retailer Mr Porter.com launches a new brand (in German). The collection named “Mr P.” will officially start in November and include a range of around “20 essential items, available all year around” Managing Director Toby Bateman announced via Instagram.



Shock treatment. Italian menswear company Canali has unexpectedly closed (in Italian) a factory for high-end menswear in Carate Brianza in Northern Italy. A total of 134 employees have been let go. The company cites contracting market conditions following the financial crisis of 2009 as the reason for the abrupt move. Trade unions and employees have announced (paywall) strikes and protests outside the factory.





tech

The merchants of Tmall. Thousands of Chinese retailers descended upon the Hangzhou-based headquarters of Alibaba Group to plead for a suspension of their upcoming eviction (in Chinese) from the online giant's platforms. Many were allegedly evicted from the Tmall B2C marketplace for failing Alibaba's service proficiency test. They pleaded for the company to reinstate its 2017 test standards or extend the testing period for the new norm. Alibaba disputes the report.



100% authentic. Yesterday, New York designer Marc Jacobs opened (in Chinese) its first authorized online flagship store in China. Retail partner is the luxury branch of online retailer VIP.com, LUX.VIP.com, which guarantees (press release) 100 percent authenticity. Jacobs' "neighbors" on the luxury platform include Burberry, Dolce & Gabbana and Versace, while the regular platform hosts commercial names like Miss Sixty, Nine West and Forever 21. 





last

No Holocaust for Halloween. A costume named after Jewish Holocaust victim Anne Frank has caused uproar on social media. Offered for girls age 4 to 12, it has since been pulled by some costume vendors and re-named by others. The look consists of a modest blue dress with ID tag, cross-body bag, flats and a green beret hat. It can still be found on several websites under Child’s 1940s Girl Costume and World War II Evacuee Girl Costume.







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