Oct
 10
 2017



Christopher

Hello,

Welcome back to The Spin. Today's edition finds streetwear brand Supreme once again generating headlines, explores changes in the European retail scene and bids farewell to the man who made the bandage dress a winner. Enjoy the read and have a terrific Tuesday! Best, Christopher



brands

Supreme sellout? Now that the secret is out that streetwear brand Supreme sold a 50 percent stake (paywall) of its business to private equity firm Carlyle in July for $500 million, people are pondering what the future will hold for the label, which now valued at $1 billion. While aggressive brand expansion seems inevitable some predict that it will erode the cult label's hard-earned and already waning street cred, which it often achieves by offering extremely limited product runs.


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Premium with Postyr. Danish fashion group Bestseller (Jack&Jones, Vero Moda, Only) announced to launch a new female brand named Postyr. It targets the premium market with more upscale price ranges - dresses up to €530, knitwear up to €400 (in German). Furthermore Bestseller plans to offer the collection to wholesale clients only digitally. A physical sample collection is planned to be shown only during tradeshows twice a year.





retail

Sale scrapped. British womenswear high street chains Oasis, Warehouse and Coast are no longer up for sale. Kaupthing, the Icelandic bank that has owned them since 2009 and has been seeking to unload them since May, now confirms that they are off the market. The group, which operates 750 doors in total and will be opening 24 more soon, has seen sales rise 18.5 percent in the first part of the year.



Package deal. Belgian Postal Group aka Bpost, Belgium's largest postal operator, is acquiring US-based e-commerce logistics company Radial for $820 million. Amazon's largest competitor when it comes to parcel fulfillment, Radial currently handles about 20 percent of all e-commerce orders between the US and EU. The acquisition should help Bpost in its quest to be a major player in international shipping.



Talking shop. Hudson Bay's Company CEO Gerald Storch told attendees at the first ever Shoptalk Europe conference which is currently taking place in Copenhagen that retailers who are closing their physical spaces instead of improving them are hastening their own downfalls. Unlike many of its contemporaries, Hudson's Bay is in expansion mode, and recently entered the European market.





markets

Golden Week gains. China's Golden Week, a normally seven-day national holiday that ran eight days this year, ended on Sunday and helped boost retail sales both at home and abroad. The Chinese commerce ministry said that daily retail sales grew 10.3 percent there to 1.5 trillion yuan (US$226 billion), which was steady compared to the 10.7 percent growth last year. A peak travel period for the Chinese, Golden Week also boosted retail business in London this year, which was an especially popular destination because of the favorable exchange rate.



MJ is not PC. At a recent talk at England's Oxford Union with British Vogue's Edward Enninful, Marc Jacobs called strict political correctness "dangerous" to creativity and noted that designers should be allowed to be inspired by cultures other than their own. Jacobs was accused of cultural appropriation last year when he sent out mostly white models in colorful dreadlocks onto his catwalk.





people

Leroux's legacy. Hervé Leroux, the founder and designer of womenswear label Hervé Léger, a red-hot brand in the 1990s and early 2000s because of its famous form-fitting bandage dresses, unexpectedly died from a ruptured aneurysm at age 60 in Paris on Friday. He launched the line in 1984 and but lost control of it and the name Léger (paywall) soon after selling it to BCBG Max Azria in 1999. He also served as creative director of Guy LaRoche from 2004 to 2006 and designed his own label, Leroux, which was shown at Paris haute couture fashion week in 2013.



Tough times for Georgina Chapman. Speculation is already afoot as to whether the recently revealed sexual harassment allegations (paywall) against Hollywood producer Harvey Weinstein will affect his wife Georgina Chapman's fashion line Marchesa, a red-carpet favorite in Tinseltown. Chapman's Instagram account received negative comments about her association with Weinstein after she posted pictures of Marchesa's new bridal collection.







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