Sep
 06
 2017



Ulrike

Hello,

Welcome back to The Spin! Tonight, Tom Ford’s fashion show will kick-off New York Fashion Week, which is one day shorter and features a revised line-up of labels this season. We also take a look at the effect of HBC’s larger than expected loss on the company’s stock and its first Hudson’s Bay branch in Amsterdam. Enjoy the read and, as always, feel free to pass it on! Best, Ulrike



brands

Kick-off. This season, New York Fashion Week will most likely be like no other before. Kicking off with top labels like Tom Ford and Raf Simons for Calvin Klein, the event however is now one day shorter. While Thom Browne, Rodarte and Proenza Schouler moved to Paris, Tommy Hilfiger shows in London and a few names have dropped out altogether, among them bankrupt BCBG and sister label Herve Leger, as well as Donna Karan and DKNY, which LVMH sold to G-III Apparel. One noteworthy newcomer is Chinese artist Liu Bolin of Moncler fame, who will unveil a ready-to-wear collection on Sunday.


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Sharpie inspiration. During New York Fashion Week, designer Jason Wu will introduce his expanded lifestyle collection. Inspired by a display of Sharpie pens in Japan, the line will include Moleskin notebooks, phone chargers and headphones as well as Sharpies. The designer has also branched out into beauty and fragrances.





retail

Larger loss. Yesterday after market hours, Canadian retail group Hudson’s Bay Company (HBC) reported a $201 million loss on sales of $3.3 billion. In anticipation of worse than expected earnings, HBC's stock had already fallen as much as 7.2 percent during Tuesday’s trading session. Analysts had expected a loss of $161.1 million on sales of $3.26 billion.



Not your grandma’s store. Earlier in the day, HBC opened the first Hudson’s Bay branch outside its home country. Located on the upscale shopping mile Rokin in central Amsterdam, the 17.000 m2 store (image gallery) carries about 500 brands - from HBC’s striped signature blankets to about 100 Dutch labels. HBC, which simultaneously launched a Hudson’s Bay online store in the Netherlands, considers (paywall) the location a prototype for the store of the future. HBC plans to open ten Dutch Hudson's Bay stores in September with additional ones to follow in 2018 and 2019.





tech

Picking up. Before the end of this year, about 79 percent of US teenagers between 12 and 17 years of age will own a smartphone. By then, their share will have surpassed the expected 77.1 percent of adult US smartphone owners, although Millennials will still continue to have the highest level of smartphone ownership at approximately 97 percent. And the preferred app of the Millennial generation is Amazon, followed by Gmail and Facebook.





markets

Selling England by the pound. The drop of the British Pound, which is down more than 16 percent since last September, has helped increase the country’s exports and consumer spending, but higher prices have also pushed inflation to a three-year high of 2.6 percent. As growth is slowing down, Britain’s economy continues to lag Europe.





people

From Balenciaga to Maje. French fashion label Maje has named (paywall) Isabelle Guichot CEO. Guichot has several decades of experience in the luxury fashion sector, most recently as CEO of Kering-owned designer label Balenciaga, where she was succeeded by Cédric Charbit in December 2016. At Maje, which is owned by Paris-based SMCP Group, she replaces (in French) Sylvie Colin. Guichot is expected to push the international expansion of the label.





last

Comeback kid. A day before the official start of New York Fashion Week, a documentary on designer Zac Posen will launch on-demand at Vogue.com. Directed by first-time filmmaker Sandy Chronopoulos, House of Z (trailer), which has been screened at the Tribeca Film Festival this April, will not have a theatrical release.







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