Jul
 31
 2017



Ulrike

Hello,

Happy Monday and welcome back to The Spin! We start the new week with a first look at Raf Simons' new vision for Calvin Klein retail - and how his fall 1995/1996 collection inspired a new A$AP Mob video. Also: Galeria Kaufhof's campaign to keep its suppliers well-disposed, and rumors about Marc Jacobs' future. Enjoy the read and feel free to share! Best, Ulrike



brands

Artwork in progress. Raf Simons is serious about repositioning Calvin Klein. In collaboration with artist Sterling Ruby, the new Chief Creative Officer has transformed the brand's minimalist flagship store on Madison Avenue into a bright yellow site for his inaugural Calvin Klein 205W39NYC collection. Scaffolding, paint splatter and black buckets symbolize a work is still in progress while vintage quilts reflect Simons’ obsession with Americana.


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Slimming down. New York Fashion Week just lost a day. This season, the event runs only seven days - from September 7 to 13. In addition to the defection of Rodarte, Proenza Schouler, Thom Browne and Joseph Altuzarra to Paris, several designers including Narciso Rodriguez are opting for showroom presentations.



Hey, Tom! One noteworthy returnee to New York Fashion Week is Texan designer Tom Ford, who has recently given up on the "see now/buy now" experiment. Last June, he returned to the traditional pre-order model with his menswear presentation in Milan.





retail

Saving face. Galeria Kaufhof’s has launched (in German) a goodwill campaign assuring its suppliers that the German department store chain will continue to meet its financial obligations on time. The retailer which belongs to Canadian Hudson’s Bay Company has also scheduled a supplier conference for October 12th. These moves come in response to a wave of negative press (in German) regarding the withdrawal of the credit lines by credit insurer Euler Hermes.



As reported, Euler Hermes has reduced its cover for suppliers to Galeria Kaufhof. While Euler Hermes refused to comment, suppliers told TextilWirtschaft the insurer would now cover only 20 to 25 per cent of shipment volume. Even though no deliveries have officially been cancelled so far, some suppliers plan to ship smaller batches to minimize the risk while others consider asking for bank guarantees or changing payment targets.



Catching up. Chinese online retailer JD.com has outpaced (paywall) the overall market for eCommerce by focusing on fast deliveries, luxury service as well as innovative and high quality merchandise. Soon, the Beijing-based company which also owns designer online platform Farfetch.com might pose a serious threat to China’s top three tech giants, Baidu, Alibaba and Tencent Holdings.





people

Uncertain future. Rumor has it that Marc Jacobs is unhappy with the development of Marc Jacobs International under its new leadership. According to sources, the company might hire another creative leader to free him from some of his day-to-day responsibilities or the designer might walk away (paywall) from his eponymous label altogether.



Crown prince. Last January, Steven Rendle succeeded Eric Wiseman as CEO of VF Corporation. This fall, he will also take on the position of Executive Chairman as Eric Wiseman is going to retire on October 28th.





markets

Blurring the lines. As Chinese millennials adopt Western streetwear at breathtaking speed, the lines between high fashion, youth culture, fast fashion and niche brands increasingly blur. Since China’s fashion market is relatively new, Chinese customers are much more open-minded and have fewer rules to break than consumers in Western cultures.





last

Don't touch my Raf. Calvin Klein’s new Chief Creative Officer Raf Simons is being paid homage (lyrics) by US rapper Rakim Mayers aka A$AP Rocky. The RAF video is based on the look book of Raf Simons’ very first Fall/Winter 1995/1996 collection and features Rocky, rap stars Quavo and Playboi Carti as well as models in rare archival Raf pieces obtained primarily from their own wardrobes.







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